TIPS FOR TRAINING YOUR COCKER PUPPY
Perhaps the most important aspect of training--house training your puppy--is also perhaps the most frustrating. It is important to understand a few facts about your puppy’s development.
First, the puppy will not have total control over his bladder and bowels until he is almost a year old. Even then, your puppy may have a few accidents every once in a while. It is important for you to understand that after the puppy has the idea that he needs to go outside to “potty,” he is not having accidents on purpose; sometimes he will just lose control.
When the puppy is quite young he will need to go out often. An adult can “hold it” like a hero, but a Cocker puppy will need to go out often. For the first few months, when he is at play, it isn’t overdoing it to take him out every half hour.
All dogs will urinate submissively to demonstrate that they understand that you are in charge. Sometimes this happens when you are scolding your puppy. If so, stop scolding him and reassure him. Do not scold him for submissive urination! If you do, he will become even more nervous, and he will be even more likely to continue this behavior. You want to build his confidence. Cockers should never be scolded harshly as a rule, as they are the sort of dog that is very eager to please, and they are also extremely sensitive. If you scare your puppy, there will be more problems to deal with when he is an adult.
Another situation that is commonly mistaken for “an accident” is submissive urination when greeting “new people,” or people that your puppy especially likes, and for Cockers this is everyone in the world. When the puppy urinates when he is excited he is saying “Hi, I love you and I am submitting to you” in dog language. Again, do not scold him. This is easily solved by simply allowing your pup to greet people outside, or by taking him out to “potty” before he meets people.
All submissive urination is something that dogs out grow. They usually start this behavior at around 6 months old, and they usually grow out of it by the time they are 1 ˝ years old, if you refrain from scolding them for it.
First you need a crate, and this crate must not be too large. Pups will not urinate where they have to sleep, if they can conceivably help it, so if the crate is too large your pup will simply go to one end and use it as his bathroom. The crate should be large enough for the puppy to stand up and turn around, and that is it. When I was training my very first puppy I had to buy several different crates as the puppy grew. Now there are wonderful new crates that come with a divider that can be moved back slowly as the puppy grows, and this sort of crate will save you money.
Some people may feel odd about putting a puppy in a crate, and they feel guilty about it. Please understand that the puppy will come to think of this crate as his personal den, and he will feel safe in there while you are away. But make it fun for him to go to his crate. Keep toys in there, feed him in there, and above all NEVER use this crate as punishment; you want the pup to like his crate. And remember, it is far more cruel not to housetrain you puppy, because then you will never be able to leave him in the house without concern, and he will never really be a part of the family.
You must have plenty of “puppy clean up” supplies. You need to be certain that when your puppy has an accident, you clean it up thoroughly. If you don’t get the scent out, your puppy will smell that area and repeatedly use it. In order to be certain, I recommend that you get a product specifically designed to get out all of the odors, including pheromones, which we can’t smell, but they can. My favorite product is “Nature’s Miracle.” “Simple Solution” also works well. Go ahead and buy the gallon jug, as it’s cheaper in the long run then buying the little ones, and you will use it! You can find these products at a pet supply store.
The rational behind crate training is that a puppy will not “go potty” where they have to sleep. For this reason, after the pup is about 10 to 12 weeks old, they will “hold it” in their crate. (Before this time, they may try to hold it, but they may simply not be able to stand it.) Dogs are creatures of habit. By using a crate, you can help your puppy form the habit of going potty outside. You should take the puppy out directly after opening the crate and before returning the puppy to his crate.
The best way to cut down on accidents is to anticipate when the puppy will need to go out, and after awhile you will begin to recognize the signs: sniffing the ground and a certain kind of walk. But if you can take him out before he has a chance to have an accident, he will begin to form a habit of going outside, and this is what you want. Again, this means paying close attention to your puppy when he is out of his crate. For the first few months, this is a bit of a hassle, but soon your pup will form a habit and gain better control.
Use the crate whenever you can’t pay full attention to your puppy. You are going to feel like this is a lot of time—too much time—for your puppy to be in his crate, but don’t worry, you are not being cruel. Small puppies need lots of sleep, and they will also begin to think of their crates as their “dens," and they feel safe in there after a while. It is much crueler to have a puppy that is not housebroken and, thus neglected, and eventually left outside as an adult. Cockers will never be happy as outdoor dogs.
Some dogs will tell you when they have to go out by going to the door, but many Cockers will never demonstrate this behavior. Some Cockers will instead simply wait kindly for you to decide that he probably needs to go out, and you just need to be sure that you remember him. He will be on your schedule.
You can use the crate when you are not home for as long as you wish. Even after my dogs are housebroken, I tend to crate them when I am not at home until they are about 1 ˝ years old. Then I remove the crate and put down a bed, and they then transfer the security that they associate with the crate to the bed.
Puppies will sometimes cry in their crates when you first bring them home, and this can even go on for a while. Yes, it will end; just ignore it as best you can. I try to get them used to it before I send them home, but, let’s face it, the pup will miss his litter mates, and he will let you know about it. I like to place a big fluffy plush toy (the ones that are all white and fuzzy) inside of the pup’s crate with him, as it gives the feel of another puppy. You can also try playing music for your pup. Our pups are used to Miles Davis and other such jazz artists, as that is what I tend to play for them, although I am sure they would adapt to nearly any music except something a bit fast paced.
As a rule, don’t let your puppy do anything that you don’t want an adult dog to do. If you don’t want the dog to beg, don’t feed the puppy from your plate. If you don’t want the dog on the furniture, don’t hold the puppy on the couch. If you don’t want the dog to jump up, don’t let the puppy jump up with his paws on your leg. If you don’t want the dog to “pull” on the leash, don’t let the puppy pull on the leash. This can be hard. Cocker puppies are little and cute, but they will be dogs, so you have to think ahead.
Dogs do not understand being “spanked," as that is a human form of communication. When a puppy is doing something that the mother dog doesn’t like she will pick him up by the scruff of his neck and shake him. You can mimic this behavior, and by saying “No” firmly, at the same time, your puppy will begin to understand that “No” means no. But do remember to say “No” like you mean it, as it is important that the puppy listen to you. And don’t shake too hard; it isn’t necessary. Do growl out your “NOOOO” as though you are a dog. If you yip out “No," this will sound like a bark and not a reprimand. I usually say “No” in a long drawn out low tone. But Cocker puppies want to please, so, as formerly stated, do not discipline your puppy too harshly, as you don’t want to make him afraid of you.
With all dogs you want to establish the fact that you are in charge, and in the dog’s head this means that you are the Alpha dog. There are many things you can do with your puppy to ensure that you have an easy going, non-aggressive adult dog.
When you feed your puppy, occasionally put your hand in his food bowl, and sometimes take the bowl away from him while he is eating. This will teach him not to be food aggressive, and it will tell him that this is your food, and that you are letting him have it.
It is a good idea to hold your puppy, even as a dog, on his back occasionally. This will help establish that you are in charge, and that you are the Alpha dog in the pack. Being on the back is a submissive position for a dog.
It is also a good idea to get your puppy used to you putting your hands in his mouth. This also helps prepare him for having his teeth brushed and for taking pills, should he have to do so later in life.
Take your puppy (after he is fully vaccinated) to public places often. Get him used to seeing all sorts of people, other animals, and noises. You want him to have as many experiences as possible while he is still young.
Take your puppy in the car often. (Naturally, don’t leave him in there when you have to go inside a store—cars get too hot!) You want the puppy to be relaxed while you are driving. I recommend that you buy a doggy seatbelt and secure him to one seat, as this is safer for you as well.
It is important to work on these commands regularly. Even after they are well established, you will want to reinforce them occasionally with your adult dog. Praise is the most effective training tool. When the puppy does something right, act like you have just won the lottery.
This command is taught by taking a favorite treat (Cocker puppies like something small and soft, like the little carton of Bill Jack treats) and putting it down in front of the puppy’s nose. Then slowly move the treat back so that he follows it with his eyes. This will automatically make the puppy sit down. Say “Sit” when he does it. By repetition he will get the idea. Do not push down on the puppy’s rear end. This feels uncomfortable and can make him react in the exact opposite way by causing him to fight your pushing hand and to back out of your reach.
This command is taught only after your puppy has “sit.” From a sitting position, hold the treat in from of the puppy’s nose and lower it to the ground (between his two front paws). Say, “Down.” Your pup will follow the treat down and lie down to get it. This may not work out every time, and sometimes he might just pounce forward at the treat. But eventually, with patience, he will get it.
From a sitting position, hold your hand out like you are stopping traffic and say, “Stay.” Back away slowly. Your pup will follow at first. When he does, say “no, no,” pick him up and reposition him sitting right back where he was. Repeat this until he gets it. Practice walking further and further away. After he has “stayed” for while, call him to you and praise him.
This is the most important command because you always need to be able to call your dog away from danger. I will teach all of the puppies to come before they leave my house by calling “pup, pup, pup.” You just need to reinforce it and change to his name. Simply say his name and “Come,” and reward the pup with treats or praise when he does it.
Leash training your puppy takes time and practice. Your puppy should walk on your left hand side, technically, but this doesn’t matter. What does matter is that your puppy not pull so much that you are cut off when walking. Walking should be a happy, easy time, and it won’t be if you are dragged helplessly, tugging on the other side of a leash. The best thing to do is to teach your dog to walk on one side of you when he is a very young puppy. Only let him walk on one side by gently pulling him back into place when he begins to cut you off. When he is old enough to start pulling you, again, correct him by pulling him back next to you where he belongs. Make sure you let up on the tension on the leash when he is in the right position next to you. You want him to feel the difference in the tension when he is walking correctly. Say “heel” when you want him to return and walk next to you; then correct him by pulling him back if he doesn’t do it on his own. If you start at a young age, you will never need a choke collar.
Dogs don’t like to walk on leashes at first. Young Cocker pups won’t even want to go on walks. Be patient, it takes time. Get a young pup used to a leash before trying to use it on a walk. Be careful not to be too rough on the puppy’s little neck. A harness is sometimes the easier training tool for a Cocker puppy because they are so little. You can switch to a collar later.
Don’t use any of these commands when scolding your puppy. If you tell your puppy to come to you so that you can scold him, you are teaching him to run away. If you are angry, and you tell him to come to you, when he does, you have to praise him even if you are still angry.
Don’t wait for “obedience classes” to start training. Start now. Most Cockers never need obedience school anyway.
Don’t wait for the puppy to be an adult before you leash train. By then he will be strong, and he will pull you, and you will get frustrated.
ADULT COCKER MAINTENANCE
Never buy your dog’s food at a grocery store. (Read on, I will explain).
Cockers must have a “corn free” diet, as corn is a cause for allergies in Cockers. It is also a “filler” for dog foods that contributes nothing but empty carbohydrates, nutritionally speaking. Even Cocker treats should be corn free. The labels will indicate whether or not the foods contain corn. You will be surprised that most supposedly “good” food is actually a rip off, which contains mostly by-products, notable in the word “meal” (chicken meal, for example) and corn.
It's a myth that vets always carry good dog foods. No, many have corn fillers and by-products, just like the grocery store brands. Now, here’s the really scary news, as many of the dog foods on the market contain products that have not been FDA approved. This means that if a dog food contains ingredients that are not FDA approved, it contains products that contained too much pesticide for human consumption, or products from animals found to have disease. In short, it is slowly, over a long period of time, poisoning your dog. Your dog will respond to this food with cancer, kidney failure and an array of other problems that could have been avoided.
Dog food companies have traditionally been a way for other food companies to get rid of, and make a profit off, of foods that the FDA rejected. Most people don’t know the facts, and perfectly well meaning pet owners are taken in by the commercials or by the packages of food seen at their vet’s, and feed these foods unknowingly. It is abhorrent.
Why do vets carry these brands? Because they fund considerable kick backs and research. Still many vets are refusing to carry it these days.
A local INDEPENDENT small business pet store will carry the “good stuff.” They will also be happy to talk with you about all that I have just said. I recommend Mill Creek on Two Notch Rd, here in the Columbia, South Carolina area. Over the years, I have really noticed that these guys know their stuff! They are usually quite aware of these problems with big time commercial brands. My favorite brands include California Natural, Innova, Eagle Gold, Newman’s Own, Natural Balance, and Eagle.
Puppy food should be given for up to six months. They used to say that it should be given for a year, but it has been shown to cause abnormal growth, and, as a result, over feeding puppy food is a leading cause in hip, back and joint problems. What makes a puppy food a “puppy” food is the amount of protein included. But some dog foods, like Eagle Gold and Innova, are so rich in protein that you can go directly to that instead of feeding puppy food. Again, you just need to read the labels. Compare the good dog foods to the average puppy chows, and you will often find that you can just feed the adult food and get the same nutrition.
I don’t mean to be dramatic about buying a good dog food, but this is probably the most important thing you can do for your dog. And my dogs’ health is a testament to that, as my dogs have little to no health problems. None of my dogs have ever eaten anything other than the brands I have listed as my favorites, and it is remarkable how healthy they are.
Do not give puppies raw hides! Those can get stuck in the stomach and cost you $2,000 in vet bills overnight. I like Nylabones and Greenies for cleaning teeth and for chewing and that is it! Those will not be harmful at all. But please stay clear of raw hides, pig ears, real bones, chicken legs, etc, etc. All of those can be dangerous.
I do not care for the overly kinky coat found on so many Cockers these days. My pups tend to have a straighter, slightly wavy, silky coat that naturally lays down instead of sticking straight out. My pups should be easy to groom as a result. But there are all different kinds of Cocker coats. Some are extremely dense and puffy, and this seems to be especially common in the browns (chocolates). No matter the coat, you should brush your Cocker at least once a week, and start this as a puppy so that he gets used to it. You will want to pay particular attention to the arm pit areas, as Cockers get mats there. I usually shave this area down on pets. You can’t see it when the dog is standing up, and it makes keeping up with the mats much easier. Your Cocker will not need to be professionally groomed for a while, but you want to be sure that they have the experience as a puppy, so that they get used to it. If you do not groom your Cocker often, you must make sure that you do shave out the hair from inside his ears, as this hair will keep the ear moist and allow infection to grow.
It is a myth that if you wash your dog too often, it will dry out his skin. This is not so with Cockers as they were originally bred to be in the water, and they need to be bathed to ensure that their skin cells are shedding properly. If the skin cells are not shed properly, it can result in a kind of rash that looks like a scab. This is called seborrhea, and after it has scabbed up considerably, it has to be treated by a vet because it requires antibiotics. The best way to avoid this is to wash you dog regularly. And some dogs are more prone to developing skin rashes. Thank goodness mine don’t seem to have this issue, but this issue can crop up seemingly from no where as the most recent research has indicated that it is not genetic.
Cockers, like many dogs, have weepy eyes, but sometimes this clears up when they are adults. Usually it is just a matter of wiping the place beneath the eyes off. There are eye wipes made for this that you can buy, or just use a tissue. The pollen in the South is no help anyone’s eyes! If your Cocker looks miserable, you can always give him half of a hard Benedryl. This is fine to do and doggie safe. You can also use eye drops, but most of the time this is just not necessary. The pollen was terrible down here last summer though, and I did give my poor dogs eye drops, as well as myself. The main reason for the eye drops is to help flush the eye of any irritating abrasive substance that could lead to “cherry eye.” Cherry eye is the inflammation of the second eye lid that dogs have and is usually caused by a scrape or some other abrasion, and your vet will have to tack it down if it does pop up. None of my dogs have ever had this, but I am diligently protective of those big glassy Cocker eyes that they have.
Cocker ears should be cleaned once a week. Your vet will have good products that I recommend more than the old household remedies (peroxide and vinegar). Your vet will have an ear “flush” that will help prevent yeast infections, and there are many different kinds. The hair around the ears should also be kept shaved. The reason for the “Cocker ear” (the ear shaved half way down) is to prevent yeast infections, as the ear will be too moist if left alone. Be sure to brush behind the ears often too. This is another good location for mats to develop.
Brush your pup's teeth now while he is young, so that he gets used to it, and will not fuss as an adult. Brushing a dog’s teeth is just economical, as it saves you from paying your vet to clean the teeth every other year. Teeth cleanings are really expensive. Make sure you use a doggie safe toothpaste obtained through a pet store, and brush teeth once a week.
Do not forget to trim the toe nails! For a puppy you will probably have to use a “people nail clipper” because the nails are so little. But remember to do it because it can cause a lot of discomfort if left unattended. Clip so that you leave just a sliver of white.
Disclaimer
I am not a vet. These tips are based on my own experiences while caring for my dogs over the years, and my own research. But the use of this advice and information is at the full risk of the user, and no advice or information should be construed as a substitute for medical or veterinary diagnosis or treatment, or as a guarantee, or as any type of warranty.
Copyright 2005 M's Cockers